I have been in search of the perfect trans-seasonal jacket for some time, and this shirt/jacket has proved to be the ultimate find.
The Makers Over Shirt by Matchy Matchy Sewing Club has been the perfect addition to my wardrobe, becoming my go-to layering piece for those trans-seasonal days. I found myself reaching for it time and again during a recent trip to Istanbul, making the most of its versatility as I paired it with my Clyde Jumpsuit from Elizabeth Suzann, and Matchy Matchy Archer Work Pants (pattern review coming soon).
Keep reading to find out more about my experience with this great pattern.
A wrap-up of this review
The makers: Matchy Matchy Sewing Club
Matchy Matchy Sewing Club was founded by self taught sewists Amy and Theresa, who turned their passion into a thriving indie pattern brand.
In January 2022, they released their first pattern, the Champagne Field Dress. Since then, they've expanded their offering to include a curated fabric selection and an impressive array of sewing patterns. But Matchy Matchy is more than just patterns and fabrics. They provide an online space where fellow sewists can connect, share ideas, and exchange invaluable tips.
What I think sets Matchy Matchy apart are their designs. They are minimal but smart. With strategically placed panel lines, their patterns give you the creative license to add your individual spin by mixing and matching colours and fabrics (also a great excuse to use up those smaller pieces of fabric you may have in your stash). Rarely will two Matchy Matchy garments be the same!
Take a look at their fabric and pattern offering on their website (linked above), or check them out on social @matchymatchysewingclub for more inspiration.
The pattern
Matchy Matchy's PDF sewing patterns, fabric and accessories are available via their online store, and their patterns are available from a growing number of online retailers.
Once you have purchased one of their patterns you will be emailed a link that allows you to download your PDF sewing pattern. The download usually comes as either a zip file, or as a PDF with hyperlinks.
When ordering the Makers Over Shirt, you will be provided with access to:
A4 sewing instructions - 12 pages.
A4 print at home pattern - 56 pages.
A0 copy shop pattern - 3 pages.
A4 mood board for fabric planning (a lovely little addition that allows you to visually play around and plan your makes).
The digital download will include nested patterns* for all sizes in both the at home and copy shop pattern folders.
I usually opt to have the A0 pattern pages printed at a copy shop. This allows me to receive all available sizes in one print bundle. I can easily fold back (with a bit of clipping on the curves) the sizes I don't currently need. Therefore, if I decide to make a different size in the future, it's conveniently ready to be unfolded.
Sizing
The pattern includes 11 sizes ranging from XXS-6XL and is drafted for 5'5" (165 cm).
The instructions
Matchy Matchy's patterns are always accompanied by minimal and clean instructions. They're not only easy to follow but also utilise clear language and diagrams, ensuring clarity throughout. Moreover, the instructions are neatly organised under subheadings, making it easy to locate specific information when needed.
Design
The Makers Over Shirt, like most of Matchy Matchy's patterns, has a relaxed fit, featuring their signature boxy style. The roominess of the design lends itself perfectly to being either a shirt or jacket, becoming a great layering piece.
The design includes a dropped shoulder, three patch pockets and a front button opening with placket. The finished shirt/jacket is intended to fall below the hips.
The pattern does include two views (A and B), with the only difference being an additional horizontal panel at the lower front and back of view B. This panel provides another option to colour block, or incorporate some additional detailing through top-stitching.
Fabric and notions
The suggested fabric for the Makers Over Shirt is light to medium weight wovens, such as twill, canvas or denim.
The only additional notions you will need for this project are sewing thread, fusible interfacing, and six 2cm (3/4") buttons.
For my version I went with Merchant & Mills' 100% cotton 8oz Organise Sanded Twill in Appolina (a brick red). I have used this fabric before for the Merchant and Mills Eve Trouser and found it a dream to work with and wear, and thought it would be the perfect weight for this style of jacket. This fabric has a fine twill with a soft sanded finish on one side and is an ideal 150cm wide. I also opted for Merchant & Mills' 4 holed, matte, 20mm Hemp Buttons also in Brick, which matched perfectly.
If you opt to mix and match your fabric, Matchy Matchy does include a mood board with their download to help you plan and visualise how different fabric combinations will look. You can position your fabric swatches in the small boxes at the bottom of the page, or colour in the accompanying technical drawings. Alternatively, I have seen a really cute idea where someone has cut out a mini version of the garment in their different fabrics.
Tip: If colour blocking, and mixing dark and light fabrics, remember to check the colour fastness of your fabrics. Pre-wash and test your fabric to avoid potential colour bleeding or running.
Cutting and layout
As always, I would recommend pre-washing your fabric as per the care instructions prior to starting any cutting or sewing. For more on pre-washing your fabric, check out my article 'How to: Pre-wash your fabric'.
The layout and cutting was fairly straightforward given the rather boxy nature of the pattern pieces. While, the pattern for the XXS fit quite nicely within my 150cm wide fabric, the instruction booklet does provide cutting layouts for 110-150cm wide fabrics if you are looking for some guidance.
This shirt only consist of 7 pattern pieces for View A, and 9 for View B, including:
Front
Back
Front facing
Back facing
Sleeve
Main pocket
Chest pocket
Front bottom panel (View B)
Back bottom panel (View B)
Another really nice inclusion with Matchy Matchy patterns are 'print and cut' labels (see image below for an example) that you can cut and and pin to your fabric to avoid mixing up your pattern pieces. Some of the pattern pieces are quite similar (e.g. the patch pockets and bottom panels for View B), so this is a nice helpful addition.
Note: I am working on a ‘How to’ for more accurately gauging the amount of fabric to buy for a pattern, as if you are like me, you tend to find yourself with an annoying strip of fabric left over that just gets added to your stash. These tips will require you to have the pattern first. Stay tuned!
Fabric preparation
Once your fabric is cut out and ready to go, there is only a little prep work that I would recommend prior to commencing sewing this shirt that may just make the sewing process that little bit smoother:
Ensure you have transferred all pattern markings and notches onto your fabric. In particular, ensure you have marked the positioning of the patch pockets and front button and button holes. This can be easily done with pins, or a chalk pencil.
Apply interfacing to the neck facing. For tips on selecting and using interfacing, check our my earlier 'How to'.
Reinforce the front and back necklines. This is done by stay-stitching** around the neckline to avoid any distortion.
Sewing
This dress pattern is described as being an 'Advanced beginner' project, and I think this is accurate.
The pattern will have you practicing some really common and useful sewing techniques, including:
Stay stitching.
Straight stitching.
Edge finishing seams.
Under-stitching.
Top-stitching.
Applying interfacing.
Creating and attaching patch pockets.
Sewing a button placket.
Creating buttonholes.
Attaching buttons.
I found the jacket came together fairly quickly, probably within a few hours, with the most time consuming element being the button holes and buttons.
The fit
My measurements:
Bust: 79cm
Waist: 62.5cm
Hips: 89cm
Height: 155cm
The oversized design, dropped shoulders, and roomy sleeves of this jacket pattern definitely make it more forgiving when it comes to fit than other styles, and a great layering piece.
I can only comment on the size XXS, but I had no real fit issues, finding the shirt to be suitably oversized (scroll through images below). The only change I would make next time is shortening the sleeves. While this style of jacket does lend itself to having the sleeves rolled up, I found that when they were unrolled, they were a bit too long on me. Given the sleeves are quite roomy, I think I would prefer to simply make them shorter next time. This would be an easy change on the pattern with a simple shorten line drawn perpendicular to the grainline at the desired length.
As I mentioned earlier, I love pairing mine with the Clyde Jumpsuit from Elizabeth Suzann, and Matchy Matchy Archer Work Pants. I also love rolling the sleeves up, and layering with a contrast long sleeve top underneath.
Personal reflection
What I loved: This piece perfectly filled a gap in my wardrobe becoming a go-to trans-seasonal piece. I cannot wait to make another in a more versatile colour or maybe even denim.
What I didn't love: Not a lot! Other than shortening the sleeves, their isn't really anything I would change about this pattern or the sewing process. There is a reason I have made almost all of Matchy Matchy's patterns!!
What I would do different next time: As this is an unlined jacket, I would definitely consider binding the internal seams to produce a neater finish.
Glossary
Nested patterns*: Refers to patterns that feature multiple sizes layered (or nested) within each other. You may see the different sizes colour coded, or more commonly indicated with different patterned lines (e.g. dashed). These differentiated lines make it easy to identify, and therefore cut or trace the desired size. When working with a PDF pattern, there will often be an option to select the size you would like printed, turning off (or making invisible) any unnecessary layers.
Stay-stitching**: Serves the purpose of stopping the edges of the fabric stretching out of shape as you construct your garment. To stay-stitch, simply use a regular stitch length (I use 2.5mm) and sew 6mm from the edge, back-tacking at the start and end of your stitching to secure the threads.
Please get in touch or leave me a comment. I would love to know if I have inspired you to check out the Makers Over Shirt pattern from Matchy Matchy Sewing Club.
Thanks for reading.
Emma xx
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