A flattering, easy to wear jumpsuit, suitable for all occasions.
I love a jumpsuit!Why?
Because you are getting a top and bottom in one, meaning no need to co-ordinate and less decisions to make.
They are (usually) super comfortable, and easy to move in. They can keep you covered up without being too covered.
There is a style for everyone and every occasion, from the playsuit, dungaree to boiler suit.
They are also a great trans-seasonal piece, being perfect for layering with a long sleeve tee underneath, covering with a simple cardigan, or smartening up with a blazer.
The Jolie Mome is one of two jumpsuits that made up my #MakeNine2023 Challenge. I particularly chose this one as I was after something that little bit more dressy, being perfect for work, or going out to dinner, while still being easily dressed down with some hi-top sneakers if needed.
A wrap-up of this review
The maker: Atelier Scämmit
Here are a few things I found out about the brand Atelier Scämmit:
Johanna Meyer is the Founder of Atelier Scämmit, starting the pattern brand in 2015.
I found that Johanna Meyer's values and reason for sewing really resonate with me:
"If sewing inspires me so profoundly, it is surely in reaction to our “disposable" society: a way of avoiding frenetic consumption, less buying of passing fads, and focusing on quality over quantity. Sewing is also the best way to clear your mind while doing something for yourself, and reconnecting with an ancestral craft in a world saturated with all things virtual."
Most of the patterns on offer by Atelier Scämmit include multiple versions, meaning you get "more bang for your buck", while also providing you with the creative license to design and make what you want or need.
Many of the patterns are accompanied by free to access step-by-step assembly videos, which are really handy. Despite being in French, they are easy to follow along with visually, and YouTube makes it easy to add subtitles in your preferred language.
There seems to be a big emphasis on presentation and finishes, from the pattern envelope (or should I say box) to the finishes of the garment.
Head to the Atelier Scämmit website (linked above), or check them out on social media @atelierscammit for their range of patterns and more inspiration.
The Jolie Mome jumpsuit pattern is available in paper or PDF format in sizes 34 to 48 (European) / 4 to 18 (US) / 6 to 20 (UK), and for bust measurements 80 to 115 cm (31 to 45 in).
I opted for the paper version, which came with a beautiful box for the pattern (see photograph to the right), being one of the most lovely pattern envelopes I have come across! Inside was a cute little postcard, 1 sheet 84 x 196 cm (>A0) of full-scale patterns, and a booklet with detailed assembly instructions with coloured photos.
The jumpsuit pattern itself includes three versions, each varying in sleeve design, with the option of short sleeves, flat or gathered cap sleeves, and without sleeves.
Overall the design is fairly minimal, with most of the interest created at the waist. The pattern features:
V neckline with a concealed binding.
Centre front invisible zipper (42cm).
Elasticised (back) and tie (front) waist.
Two sets of pleats at the top of the front of the trousers.
Wide leg trousers, with no side seam.
Deep hem (10cm) at the trouser leg.
If ordering the paper version, the patterns are printed on pretty standard white paper, not tissue paper. I personally prefer tissue paper as I find it easier to work with, especially when it comes to pinning.
Tip: Simply highlight the required pieces of the pattern in your size in a different colour, and trace off with transparent paper. This way you have paper patterns that are easier to work with and your original patterns remain in pristine condition.
The pattern pieces are clearly labelled, and it is easy to identify the different sizing.
As the trousers don't have a side seam, this pattern piece is quite large, so allow yourself enough room to cut and/or trace this piece out.
When it comes to choosing the right size, and how to make adjustments, there is detailed information on the site.
The instruction booklet is bilingual (English-French). This was fine, but I did find that some meaning may have been a little "lost in translation" (understandably), as I found myself reading and re-reading a few of the instructions to make sure I was of the correct understanding.
The instruction booklet features colour photographs for each step. However, it was slightly difficult to interpret the photographs at times for this particular pattern, as a light coloured garment has been used on a white table.
The instructions also include a glossary at the back of the booklet for particular techniques. These are referenced throughout the instructions by a (*). The techniques are fairly well defined and easy to follow, the only downside is that you are flicking back and forth constantly to look things up.
As mentioned previously, there is a link to a "Sew-a-long" YouTube video for this pattern (see Additional Resources below). This video is in French however, YouTube makes it easy to add subtitles in your preferred language. I found this video helpful, especially as this was an unfamiliar pattern brand and I was still getting used to their particular phrasing and techniques. The only downside was that the video does feature the same light coloured fabric and white table as the instruction booklet.
Fabric and notions
I opted for a 85% Tencel™ Lyocell, 14% linen from Merchant & Mills, in a chalky khaki green. This fabric is 150cm wide, 203gsm, and Oeko-Tex certified, and has a beautiful soft fluid drape with a matte finish. The small amount of linen gives the fabric a little more body and a slight slubby finish. It also makes it easier to work with, as it can be a little slippy at times. I would definitely recommend steering towards a lighter weight, more fluid draping fabric such as this, given the gathered waist and wide legs of this pattern.
To complete this jumpsuit you will also need 5mm wide elastic for the waist (back) and a 42cm invisible zipper for the centre front opening.
Tip: You can shorten an invisible zipper. I recommend taking a look at this blog post from the Sewing Gem for easy to follow instructions. I used a slightly shorter invisible zipper (40cm), as I couldn't find the right length in a matching colour, and it worked fine also.
It is also recommended to use 1cm wide fusible interfacing tape for the front and back neckline and armholes. Whilst I did have the tape, I chose not to use it in this instance, instead simply stay-stitching* around the neckline and armholes to avoid any distortion.
*Stay-stitching serves the purpose of stopping the edges of the fabric stretching out of shape as you construct your garment. To stay-stitch, simply use a regular stitch length (I use 2.5mm) and sew 6mm from the edge, back-tacking at the start and end of your stitching to secure the threads.
Cutting and layout
The pattern only consists of 4 pattern pieces (3 if making the sleeveless version). As I chose the short sleeve version, I was working with the following pieces:
Back bodice (cut on fold)
All in one trouser leg (no side seam)
There is no pattern piece for the waist ties or neck binding, with the booklet instead providing simple to follow instructions and measurements to aid with the cutting out.
The trousers of the jumpsuit do not have a side seam, making the pattern piece quite large. Therefore, as the pattern piece does not fit within the width-wise folded fabric (see diagram below - left), I folded the fabric in half length-wise (see diagram below - right), deviating from the cutting layout in the instruction booklet. I was able to do this, with my pattern pieces running in opposite directions, as my fabric did not have a pattern or nap, so it didn't matter. If you are not in a position to do this, it simply means you will have to cut out the trouser leg twice - just remember to flip your pattern piece for the second trouser leg so that you have a pair!
As always, I would recommend pre-washing your fabric as per the care instructions prior to starting any cutting or sewing (I am getting better at ensuring I do this step myself).
Also, ensure you have transferred all pattern markings and notches. In particular, there are two buttonhole (or eyelet) markings at the centre front for the waist tie, and a number of notches at the waist for the pleats. Be sure not to miss these as they will make things a lot easier later on!
Other than this there isn’t a lot required prior to commencing sewing of this jumpsuit. The pattern simply requires you to;
Reinforce the front and back necklines and armholes. You can use fusible interfacing tape as suggested, or stay-stitch as I did.
Iron on a small patch of interfacing as reinforcement for the buttonholes or eyelets for the waist tie.
Measure, cut, and prepare the neckline binding and waist ties. All instructions and measurements are included in the booklet for these.
I would describe the Jolie Mome jumpsuit as an intermediate sewing pattern. The pattern will have you:
Attaching fusible interfacing tape (or stay-stitching) to the necklines and armholes.
Creating and attaching a neck binding.
Sewing quite a few french seams
Sewing buttonholes, and attaching a buttons (or eyelets).
Assembling and inserting sleeves.
Making box pleats.
Inserting an invisible zipper.
This pattern is all about finishes, on the outside as well as inside. Most of the inside is finished with French seams, the neckline is finished with a concealed bind, and the trousers feature a deep, double rolled hem.
While the exclusion of a side seam on the trousers is a nice finish, it does come at the cost of pockets. I do find that a garment like this needs pockets. The couple of times I have worn this, I have found myself trying to slide my hands into pockets, feeling a little lost!
The only real tip, or step, I would suggest being mindful of is in regards to the trouser hem. I would recommend holding off pre-pressing the deep hem until you know the jumpsuit is the right length simply to avoid unnecessary pressing marks in your fabric.
The jumpsuit has a really flattering fit, thanks to the gathered and tie waist, v-neckline and wide legs.
I am more on the shorter side, coming in at approximately 155cm, and I found the length to be perfect, with the trousers finishing just above my ankles.
The gathered waist is really comfortable, while also being that little bit more forgiving when it comes to fit.
The shoulders sit quite nicely on the shoulder, and while the sleeves are quite short, they are a nice length, suiting the overall design.
Please get in touch or leave me a comment. I would love to know if you found this article helpful. Maybe I have inspired you to check out the Jolie Mome jumpsuit pattern from Atelier Scämmit for yourself.
Thanks for reading.
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